Organic Cotton Expert Slams ‘Certification Charade’ and Calls for ‘Sectoral Reinvention’

By Crispin Argento, March 3, 2022

The recent New York Times exposé “That Organic Cotton T-Shirt May Not Be as Organic as You Think’” should not be misinterpreted as an affront to farmers who choose to grow organically or the organic agricultural philosophy—in fact, it can and should be viewed as quite the opposite.

Following what I imagine was a months-long and meticulous investigation, the piece should serve as a guidepost and wake-up call to proponents of organic agriculture around the world to demand more from the sector. This includes a directive for the key beneficiaries of organic cotton, including farmers, suppliers, certification owners, brands, and consumers, to reimagine the sector by refocusing on and investing more in farmers and textile workers—the people that grow and make what we wear, and what brands and retailers sell.

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