CertainT in Uncertain Times

The headwinds facing the industry by tariffs, coronavirus, or natural disasters continue to disrupt global value chains. This uncertainty creates additional pressure to executives and brands to find immediate solutions to provide on-time delivery, high quality, and price. How do you know your raw materials are in fact what your customer has specified and approved? How do you bring more certainty in your value chain? As the industry evolves, a scientific solution is critical to providing brands with the assurance they need across all fabrications in order to support all the claims that brands make to provide more transparency to consumers with the products that resonate with them. Broad-based scientific driven solutions provided by Applied DNA Sciences gives flexibility throughout the value and supply chains, and provide “forensic certainty” in times of great uncertainty.

US Passes Uyghur Act

The Uighur bill, which passed by 407-1 in the Democratic-controlled House, requires the president to condemn abuses against Muslims and call for the closure of mass detention camps in the north-western region of Xinjiang. It calls for sanctions against senior Chinese officials who it says are responsible and specifically names the Xinjiang Communist party secretary, Chen Quanguo, who as a politburo member is in the upper echelons of China’s leadership.

Traceability and the Dynamics of ‘Conflicted Cotton’

Tracey Greenstein, November 8, 2019

Cotton traceability systems can identify the species, geographic origin, and integrity of the fiber as it is produced into finished goods.

Conflicted cotton is an oft-ignored topic in the fashion industry. But as traceability grows as a subject of interest, conflicted cotton — its origins, and the human rights abuses that surround its production processes — is having a comeback of sorts.

Read more at WWD

The New Yorker: The End of Egyptian Cotton

By Yasmine Al-Sayyad, February 27, 2020

“I would say in late 2009, 2010, is kind of when I started personally hearing less about Egyptian cotton,” Steven Birkhold, a former C.E.O. of Lacoste and Diesel U.S.A., told me. “I used to travel frequently to a lot of our key partners, whether it be the ginning mills or the spinners, and that’s kind of when we stopped paying attention—from brands like Diesel, Lacoste, Lee Jeans—to Egyptian cotton.”

On January 25, 2011, encouraged by the success of protests in Tunisia that led to the departure of President Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali, thousands of Egyptians flooded the streets to protest the corruption and aggression of President Hosni Mubarak and his administration. Very quickly, Mubarak was forced out, and new governments were shuffled at high speed. In this context, the health of the country’s cotton was further ignored. The best cotton plants are a hybrid of different species selected for particular qualities. Some farmers began to cut corners, ignoring the “isolation distance” required between cotton fields of different varieties. Their seeds became badly cross-pollinated. The Egyptian government, which controls all seed research, has long struggled to come up with new ones. “It’s like having too small a gene pool,” James Hayward, the C.E.O. of Applied DNA Sciences, which makes DNA tags that allow manufacturers to trace products through supply chains, told me. (Birkhold is currently a consultant for Applied DNA.) “If it’s inbred, it just gets weaker and weaker faster and faster.”

CertainT for Cotton Assurance

NY Times: Inside China's Push to Turn Muslim Minorities Into an Army of Workers

The Communist Party wants to remold Xinjiang’s minorities into loyal blue-collar workers to supply Chinese factories with cheap labor.

By Chris Buckley and Austin Ramzy, February 17, 2020

KASHGAR, China — The order from Chinese officials was blunt and urgent. Villagers from Muslim minorities should be pushed into jobs, willing or not. Quotas would be set and families penalized if they refused to go along.

“Make people who are hard to employ renounce their selfish ideas,” the labor bureau of Qapqal, a county in the western region of Xinjiang, said in the directive last year.

Such orders are part of an aggressive campaign to remold Xinjiang’s Muslim minorities — mostly Uighurs and Kazakhs — into an army of workers for factories and other big employers. Under pressure from the authorities, poor farmers, small traders and idle villagers of working age attend training and indoctrination courses for weeks or months, and are then assigned to stitch clothes, make shoes, sweep streets or fill other jobs.

Read more at NY Times

Nutrition21 CertainT®: Be Definite About Your Dietary Supplement Ingredients

PricePlow gives a spot-on explanation of CertainT’s ability to track patented ingredients, prove authenticity and protect against dilution in nutraceuticals. CertainT has been adopted by the cannabis and textile industries, to name a few.

US House passes Uyghur Act calling for
tough sanctions on Beijing over Xinjiang camps

Hong Kong (CNN)The US House of Representatives passed a bill Tuesday demanding a tougher response from the Trump administration over reports of mass detention centers run by the Chinese government in Xinjiang.

The Uyghur Human Rights Policy Act, which still needs to gain approval from the US Senate, calls for concrete measures to be taken against Beijing over allegations that up to two million Muslim-majority Uyghurs have been detained in “re-education” camps in the far western region.

The Chinese government reacted with fury to the proposed legislation, which Foreign Ministry spokesman Hua Chunying said “wantonly smeared China’s counter-terrorism and de-radicalization efforts.”

Read more at CNN Politics

Uyghurs for sale

‘Re-education’, forced labour and surveillance beyond Xinjiang.

 

What’s the problem?

The Chinese government has facilitated the mass transfer of Uyghur and other ethnic minority1 citizens from the far west region of Xinjiang to factories across the country. Under conditions that strongly suggest forced labour, Uyghurs are working in factories that are in the supply chains of at least 83 well-known global brands in the technology, clothing and automotive sectors, including Apple, BMW, Gap, Huawei, Nike, Samsung, Sony and Volkswagen.

This report estimates that more than 80,000 Uyghurs were transferred out of Xinjiang to work in factories across China between 2017 and 2019, and some of them were sent directly from detention camps.2 The estimated figure is conservative and the actual figure is likely to be far higher. In factories far away from home, they typically live in segregated dormitories,3 undergo organised Mandarin and ideological training outside working hours,4 are subject to constant surveillance, and are forbidden from participating in religious observances.5 Numerous sources, including government documents, show that transferred workers are assigned minders and have limited freedom of movement.6

Read more at ASPI.org

US House approves Uighur Act calling for
sanctions on China's senior officials

The US House of Representatives has overwhelmingly approved a bill that would require the Trump administration to toughen its response to China’s crackdown on its Muslim minority in Xinjiang, drawing swift condemnation from Beijing.

The Uighur Act of 2019 is a stronger version of a bill that angered Beijing when it passed the Senate in September. It calls on the president, Donald Trump, to impose sanctions for the first time on a member of China’s powerful politburo even as he seeks a trade deal with Beijing.

Read more at The Guardian

Join the Molecular Tagged Universe with CertainT®

Sainsbury’s Home has launched an exclusive new range of bed linen, made from a blend of recycled polyester and BCI cotton

Designed to ensure a comfortable night’s sleep, the Sleep More Sustainably bedding will be available in a range of sizes, from single to king, with a total of 48* recycled plastic bottles going into a double plain duvet set. It is the latest step in the brand’s efforts towards more sustainably sourced and created products.

The true cost of colour: The impact of textile dyes on water systems

By Beth Ranson

Thick, ink-like water flows through rivers surrounding garment factories; a toxic soup of chemicals discarded from the fashion industry’s synthetic dye processes, filtering into the water systems of the planet. Why is colour – this fundamental component of fashion production – allowed to pollute water systems throughout the world? As much as 200 tonnes of water are used per tonne of fabric in the textile industry. The majority of this water is returned to nature as toxic waste, containing residual dyes and hazardous chemicals. Wastewater disposal is seldom regulated, adhered to or policed, meaning big brands, and the factory owners themselves are left unaccountable. Examples of synthetic dyes are disperse, reactive, acid and azo dyes. Natural dyes, meaning colour obtained from naturally occurring sources – are another source of colour for textiles, but these are rarely employed on industrial scales.

Putting pressure on brands for transparency in supply chains, and adjusting our expectations as consumers to purchase less and reject endorsement of fast fashion are ways we can individually make an impact. Green Peace’s Detox campaign has gone a long way in pressuring brands to reduce and remove chemicals from their water processes, but Greenwashing is still prevalent amongst many retailers; more must be done. Looking past colourful aesthetics to the morality behind the creation of our clothes will facilitate positive change.

Read more at Fashion Revolution

The true cost of colour: The impact of textile dyes on water systems

Upcoming Events

NW Materials Show

FEB 12-13, 2020 | PORTLAND, OREGON

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NW Materials Show

FEB 12-13, 2020 | PORTLAND, OREGON

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International exhibition of leather, accessories, components, fabric, synthetics and models.

FEB 19-21, 2020 | MILAN, ITALY

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Home Fashions Market Week

MAR 23-26, 2020 | NEW YORK, NY

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Combating Trafficking in Counterfeit and Pirated Goods

The rapid growth of e-commerce has revolutionized the way goods are bought and sold, allowing for counterfeit and pirated goods to flood our borders and penetrate our communities and homes. Illicit goods trafficked to American consumers by e-commerce platforms and online third-party marketplaces threaten public health and safety, as well as national security. This illicit activity impacts American innovation and erodes the competitiveness of U.S. manufacturers and workers.

“Combating Trafficking in Counterfeit and Pirated Goods,” has been prepared by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security’s Office of Strategy, Policy, and Plans. The report uses available data, substantial public input, and other information to develop a deeper understanding of how e-commerce platforms, online third-party marketplaces, and other third-party intermediaries facilitate the importation and sale of massive amounts of counterfeit and pirated goods. The report identifies appropriate administrative, statutory, regulatory, and other actions, including enhanced enforcement measures, modernization of legal and liability frameworks, and best practices for private sector stakeholders. These strong actions can be implemented swiftly to substantially reduce trafficking in counterfeit and pirated goods while promoting a safer America.

https://www.dhs.gov/publication/combating-trafficking-counterfeit-and-pirated-goods

PGA Merchandise Show

By Wayne Buchen

The PGA Merchandise show featured over 350 golf apparel brands showcasing their current offerings or previews of upcoming lines.

The show was attended by the usual big brands (Nike, Adidas, Under Armour, Foot Joy, etc.), but what caught my eye was the launch of Polo Ralph Lauren’s first foray into Golf Performance Fabrics and Styles. Yes, they have the RLX line, but this was under the brand’s namesake.

Our strategic partner, TexRay, continues to engage with Applied DNA Sciences to co-develop fabrics and styles.

The Greg Norman Line continues to gain traction globally; we had excellent discussions with Haresh Tharani, CEO and Danny Lee, VP Design on how to incorporate our DNA solution into their next seasonal product line.

Upcoming Events

2020 Global Cotton Sustainability Conference

JUN 9-11, 2020 | LISBON, PORTUGAL

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Summer Market

JUN 23-25, 2020 | DENVER, CO

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Home Fashions Market Week

SEP 14-17, 2020 | NEW YORK, NY

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